Some colors are very easy, some not so easy, and some are very difficult. New breeders should think about this as they choose their colors. If they want some variety in litters, they should choose compatible colors.
Again, see Color Articles for lists of colors and how they can be used.
So what are the easiest varieties? One way to decide is to look at the Standard of Perfection. Varieties with the fewest color faults or DQs are generally the best for beginners. I'm not going to talk about every variety here. I'll just touch on the easiest and hardest with a few in between.
~ Very Easy ~
Ruby-Eyed White (REW). I call this the no-brainer color. REW is the true albino and there is no color to consider. The breeder can concentrate on type alone. It's not hard to obtain quality REWs. Breed REW x REW and you get REW. They are useful with other varieties, but you have to know what is under the white sheet or get some unexpected surprises in the nestbox. REW is a recessive (both parents must carry it to produce it) but it also seems to be a rather strong recessive. It can be carried hidden (not appear on a pedigree), and it pops up easily when two rabbits carrying it come together. Probably the hardest thing about REWs is keeping them clean and white. And it can get rather boring seeing nothing but REW in the nestbox.
Otter. Otter is currently one of the most popular varieties. Type is outstanding and that's probably the hardest thing about Otters...acquiring the desired type. Most of the top breeders are doing Otter, and the competition is large and fierce. The color itself is not that difficult. There are few DQs, and the main difference will be in the intensity of the coloration. Black Otter is the most common and usually does the best on the table, but all four colors are available. It also tends to be the most expensive to acquire high quality stock.
Chestnut. Pretty much the same as for Otter. Type is established, and it's not that hard to obtain quality stock. Chestnut can also be bred to Otter without degrading the color of either. Once upon a time, Chestnut and REW were the most popular varieties, but Otter has taken their places. They are often more affordable than Otter.
~ Not So Easy ~
Himalayan (Himi). I put Himis at the top of this section because it's not that hard to work with. The main consideration (after type) will be the quality of the point color. Mates are somewhat limited, but there are options to provide some variety in the nestbox. Many shaded breeders include Himi in their programs as Himi (and REW) keep shadeds from becoming too dark. The best point color is said to come from Himi x Himi. Selfs (Black, Blue, etc.) are also options for mates. The dilute Himis (Blue, Lilac) tend to not do as well on the table because the color contrast isn't as striking as black.
Shaded. I'm lumping all the shadeds together because in most cases they can be interbred and type is fairly easy to optain. This includes Siamese Sable, Siamese Smoke Pearl, Sable Point, and Tort. You do have to be careful when doing all four as dilute is unshowable in Sable Point (Blue Point) and Tort (Blue Tort). Although Blue Tort is close to being accepted. One of the worst things about the shadeds is the rather small window when they are in show condition. They go through the most horrible molts and can take forever to regain their former glory. Some (Siamese Sable is the worst) never do after a couple of adult molts. 4-8 months of age is often when they are at their best and it's probably when new breeders first become enamored of the colors. They quickly learn they don't stay so beautiful.
Silver Marten & Chinchilla. These colors can be affected by modifiers and recessives such as shaded and REW. They can be as stunning and typey as Otter when the color is correct. The hard part is getting that crisp intense color. Options for mates should be limited to Silver Marten and Chinchilla, and to some extent, Otter. Silver Martens and Chins should be obtained from breeders specializing in those varieties.
Black. Black seems to have overtaken REW in the Self Group recently. Type is very good across the board. However, it's not an easy color. Hidden genes and modifiers can ruin a fine black. There is the always annoying white hairs, and very few blacks are completely free of white. Whether scattered or spots, white is something that may have to be culled. The best blacks are said to come from Otters. The color is purer as long as the breeder has avoided other things like the shaded genes.
~ Very Difficult ~
Tan. This is the ultimate black & tan rabbit. Due to the genes and modifiers necessary, it is one of the most striking varieties. I put it at the top of this section because it's the most difficult. It's a very rare variety and type is just not there. Many Tan breeders use Otters for type, but it's a vicious circle. Breed to Otter for type...lose color. Breed back to Tan...lose type. Many breeders attempted it, but gave up in frustration. There is only a small handful of breeders still working with it. Tan is not for the faint of heart and you really have to be dedicated to it. It also needs more space. One of the colors most helpful is Red and it's unshowable.
Lynx. This is another rare variety and the color is hard to breed correctly. There are quite a few faults and DQs, and unshowable Chocolate Chestnut may be necessary to work with it. As with any rare variety, type is a work in progress.
Orange & Fawn. These are pretty much stand-alone varieties. They can be bred to each other, but other varieties should be avoided. They are judged strongly on coloration. Smut (scattered black hairs) is a severe fault and is usually tied to the Oranges being based on black. You need the recessive Chocolate gene to clean them up. Outcrossing to Otter for type can be disasterous for the Otters because it adds the undesirable non-extension gene that produces unshowable Tort Otter. Chestnut is a better option for type because Orange/Fawn are agoutis. Unshowable Chocolate Chestnut is an ideal mate. Again, you need extra space.
Blue-Eyed White (BEW). This is another stand-alone variety that requires extra space and dedication. Type is the most difficult thing about BEWs. The color itself is not that hard, but does require outcrossing to create unshowable Vienna-Marked (VM) to improve type and suppress undesirable genetic traits. Due to these factors, they are a bit rare, and there's often not enough decent competition.
In Part 3, I'll talk about my own color management.
