This installment is about my own color management and history with color over the years.
On the way home from work one Saturday morning in 1999, I saw a sign in town that said "Rabbit Show". Really? I didn't know there were rabbit shows. I had a pet rabbit at the time, so I swung into the show to see what it was about. They were just setting up and told me when it would open, and yes...there would be rabbits for sale. So I dashed home, grabbed whatever I had for a carry cage and went back.
The showroom was packed by the time I got back. I had no idea there were so many beautiful rabbit breeds! I saw some that looked a lot like my pet bunny which led me to believe he may have been a Havana mix.
There were a lot of Netherland Dwarfs. I'd heard of them, but had never seen one. How cute! I brought home a pair for $25 each w/ pedigrees. Since they were adults, I decided to raise a litter of pets that would be bonded to me from a young age. I knew nothing about color! The buck was a Chinchilla and the doe was a Himi. I got one litter out of that sweet little doe and then she had to be put down for wry neck. Research said this was sometimes due to weaning stress. The litter was 2 himis and a chinchilla. I kept the chin doe for my pet baby bunny and gave the other 2 away.
I had internet by this time and used it to research this adorable little breed. I learned there were rules to breeding color and my pair was a big no-no. I had fallen in love and wanted more, and began to look for local breeders.
I found a couple in my neighborhood, and since I had the chin doe and her chin sire, I went with what would be compatible for them. I came home with an otter doe from one breeder, and a seal buck and smoke pearl doe from another who specialized in shadeds. I was off and running and various colors began to appear in the nestboxes.
I lost interest in the agoutis, and focused more on the shadeds. The otters were around for awhile, and the occasional silver marten came out of that group. I learned himi was a good mate for shaded and acquired a pair of those. Those original rabbits are still in some of my pedigrees way way back!
Then I heard about Blue-Eyed White. Oh my. I had to have some! I found a breeder in Canada in 2001. I was in Michigan and it was an easy drive to the Canadian border. I bought a sr doe who was bred, and her daughter from the same sire. I then found another BEW breeder in MI and got a blue VM buck and BEW doe from them. So began the BEW project. I won't go into the problems I encountered with this early BEW stock. This is about color.
It was probably close to 2 years before I got up the nerve to enter a show. In the meantime, I went to them to learn and pick up new stock. A wonderful little Sable Marten became an important foundation buck. I began to specialize more in the shadeds and shaded martens. More himis joined the herd to breed to the shadeds. I leaned away from otters and silver martens, expecially when I learned the shaded gene wasn't good for silver marten unless you were doing shaded marten. I got some badly colored silver martens in litters.
For many years, the herd consisted of shaded, himi, BEW, and a few tan patterns. I dabbled in orange for a very short time but quickly lost interest when I saw how difficult the variety was to acquire and breed correctly. The BEWs were taking up quite a bit of valuable space by this time.
In 2004, I retired and moved to Tennessee. I brought about 25 rabbits with me. I sold off a lot of rabbits to make the move easier. The varieties still included shaded, shaded marten, himi and BEW. Before I left MI, I picked up a few more from top notch breeders, and that included a blue otter out of import lines. So I was back in otter again.
I worked with the ones I had, and bought some southern stock to compliment them. I lost interest in the otters again and sold all but a son from that blue otter buck. I learned he carried everything, and I used him effectively with almost any doe. He sparked my interest in selfs, especially chocolate. I learned about recessive genes, and that I needed more chocolates. A good friend sent me some from MI. He also sent me a sable point buck. This was another recessive gene I had tried in vain to acquire by breeding. This buck finally got that project going.
About this time, brokens came on the scene. They were about a year from being accepted, so at the same time as the chocs and sable pt, my friend sent me 3 brokens...2 does and a buck. I was one of the first in the south to have them, and the first to put them on the table as soon as they were recognized.
I soon cut out the shaded martens, and only kept selfs and shadeds that came from the otter buck. His type was important and he became herd sire to the brokens. He also added his wealth of recessive color genes. I preferred the broken selfs, and tried to work the broken shadeds. That didn't work out as well. All the brokens carried self and I got more selfs than shadeds. The choc gene now being carried by most of the brokens also put a glitch in shaded brokens.
Soon other breeders were working with brokens and because they had otters (currently the best type in the country), I was falling behind. I could still claim the best patterns consistently and culled harder than everyone else for that. I don't care for tan pattern brokens, but needed type from somewhere. I had by this time a chestnut VM buck for the BEWs, and I realized how pretty agouti + white is. Enter the agoutis. This was the next best option for broken type improvement, and I acquired a pair from the best chestnut breeder in the south. I've come full circle to one of the original varieties in my herd.
I'll wrap this up to the present day. I've already talked about this in recent blogs so I won't go into details again. This past year, I took stock of the herd, my goals, and other things, and decided it was time to cut way back. I'm now down to selfs, agoutis, himis and brokens. I plan to maintain a much smaller head count in the future and work hard to move forward in my current varieties. My focus is the brokens. The selfs and agoutis won't be shown that much, they're mostly here for breeding to broken. The himis are my easy variety and I'll keep them to always have something respectable to enter in a show.
Happy Spring!
tnt
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
Color Management - Part 2
Some colors are very easy, some not so easy, and some are very difficult. New breeders should think about this as they choose their colors. If they want some variety in litters, they should choose compatible colors.
Again, see Color Articles for lists of colors and how they can be used.
So what are the easiest varieties? One way to decide is to look at the Standard of Perfection. Varieties with the fewest color faults or DQs are generally the best for beginners. I'm not going to talk about every variety here. I'll just touch on the easiest and hardest with a few in between.
~ Very Easy ~
Ruby-Eyed White (REW). I call this the no-brainer color. REW is the true albino and there is no color to consider. The breeder can concentrate on type alone. It's not hard to obtain quality REWs. Breed REW x REW and you get REW. They are useful with other varieties, but you have to know what is under the white sheet or get some unexpected surprises in the nestbox. REW is a recessive (both parents must carry it to produce it) but it also seems to be a rather strong recessive. It can be carried hidden (not appear on a pedigree), and it pops up easily when two rabbits carrying it come together. Probably the hardest thing about REWs is keeping them clean and white. And it can get rather boring seeing nothing but REW in the nestbox.
Otter. Otter is currently one of the most popular varieties. Type is outstanding and that's probably the hardest thing about Otters...acquiring the desired type. Most of the top breeders are doing Otter, and the competition is large and fierce. The color itself is not that difficult. There are few DQs, and the main difference will be in the intensity of the coloration. Black Otter is the most common and usually does the best on the table, but all four colors are available. It also tends to be the most expensive to acquire high quality stock.
Chestnut. Pretty much the same as for Otter. Type is established, and it's not that hard to obtain quality stock. Chestnut can also be bred to Otter without degrading the color of either. Once upon a time, Chestnut and REW were the most popular varieties, but Otter has taken their places. They are often more affordable than Otter.
~ Not So Easy ~
Himalayan (Himi). I put Himis at the top of this section because it's not that hard to work with. The main consideration (after type) will be the quality of the point color. Mates are somewhat limited, but there are options to provide some variety in the nestbox. Many shaded breeders include Himi in their programs as Himi (and REW) keep shadeds from becoming too dark. The best point color is said to come from Himi x Himi. Selfs (Black, Blue, etc.) are also options for mates. The dilute Himis (Blue, Lilac) tend to not do as well on the table because the color contrast isn't as striking as black.
Shaded. I'm lumping all the shadeds together because in most cases they can be interbred and type is fairly easy to optain. This includes Siamese Sable, Siamese Smoke Pearl, Sable Point, and Tort. You do have to be careful when doing all four as dilute is unshowable in Sable Point (Blue Point) and Tort (Blue Tort). Although Blue Tort is close to being accepted. One of the worst things about the shadeds is the rather small window when they are in show condition. They go through the most horrible molts and can take forever to regain their former glory. Some (Siamese Sable is the worst) never do after a couple of adult molts. 4-8 months of age is often when they are at their best and it's probably when new breeders first become enamored of the colors. They quickly learn they don't stay so beautiful.
Silver Marten & Chinchilla. These colors can be affected by modifiers and recessives such as shaded and REW. They can be as stunning and typey as Otter when the color is correct. The hard part is getting that crisp intense color. Options for mates should be limited to Silver Marten and Chinchilla, and to some extent, Otter. Silver Martens and Chins should be obtained from breeders specializing in those varieties.
Black. Black seems to have overtaken REW in the Self Group recently. Type is very good across the board. However, it's not an easy color. Hidden genes and modifiers can ruin a fine black. There is the always annoying white hairs, and very few blacks are completely free of white. Whether scattered or spots, white is something that may have to be culled. The best blacks are said to come from Otters. The color is purer as long as the breeder has avoided other things like the shaded genes.
~ Very Difficult ~
Tan. This is the ultimate black & tan rabbit. Due to the genes and modifiers necessary, it is one of the most striking varieties. I put it at the top of this section because it's the most difficult. It's a very rare variety and type is just not there. Many Tan breeders use Otters for type, but it's a vicious circle. Breed to Otter for type...lose color. Breed back to Tan...lose type. Many breeders attempted it, but gave up in frustration. There is only a small handful of breeders still working with it. Tan is not for the faint of heart and you really have to be dedicated to it. It also needs more space. One of the colors most helpful is Red and it's unshowable.
Lynx. This is another rare variety and the color is hard to breed correctly. There are quite a few faults and DQs, and unshowable Chocolate Chestnut may be necessary to work with it. As with any rare variety, type is a work in progress.
Orange & Fawn. These are pretty much stand-alone varieties. They can be bred to each other, but other varieties should be avoided. They are judged strongly on coloration. Smut (scattered black hairs) is a severe fault and is usually tied to the Oranges being based on black. You need the recessive Chocolate gene to clean them up. Outcrossing to Otter for type can be disasterous for the Otters because it adds the undesirable non-extension gene that produces unshowable Tort Otter. Chestnut is a better option for type because Orange/Fawn are agoutis. Unshowable Chocolate Chestnut is an ideal mate. Again, you need extra space.
Blue-Eyed White (BEW). This is another stand-alone variety that requires extra space and dedication. Type is the most difficult thing about BEWs. The color itself is not that hard, but does require outcrossing to create unshowable Vienna-Marked (VM) to improve type and suppress undesirable genetic traits. Due to these factors, they are a bit rare, and there's often not enough decent competition.
In Part 3, I'll talk about my own color management.
Again, see Color Articles for lists of colors and how they can be used.
So what are the easiest varieties? One way to decide is to look at the Standard of Perfection. Varieties with the fewest color faults or DQs are generally the best for beginners. I'm not going to talk about every variety here. I'll just touch on the easiest and hardest with a few in between.
~ Very Easy ~
Ruby-Eyed White (REW). I call this the no-brainer color. REW is the true albino and there is no color to consider. The breeder can concentrate on type alone. It's not hard to obtain quality REWs. Breed REW x REW and you get REW. They are useful with other varieties, but you have to know what is under the white sheet or get some unexpected surprises in the nestbox. REW is a recessive (both parents must carry it to produce it) but it also seems to be a rather strong recessive. It can be carried hidden (not appear on a pedigree), and it pops up easily when two rabbits carrying it come together. Probably the hardest thing about REWs is keeping them clean and white. And it can get rather boring seeing nothing but REW in the nestbox.
Otter. Otter is currently one of the most popular varieties. Type is outstanding and that's probably the hardest thing about Otters...acquiring the desired type. Most of the top breeders are doing Otter, and the competition is large and fierce. The color itself is not that difficult. There are few DQs, and the main difference will be in the intensity of the coloration. Black Otter is the most common and usually does the best on the table, but all four colors are available. It also tends to be the most expensive to acquire high quality stock.
Chestnut. Pretty much the same as for Otter. Type is established, and it's not that hard to obtain quality stock. Chestnut can also be bred to Otter without degrading the color of either. Once upon a time, Chestnut and REW were the most popular varieties, but Otter has taken their places. They are often more affordable than Otter.
~ Not So Easy ~
Himalayan (Himi). I put Himis at the top of this section because it's not that hard to work with. The main consideration (after type) will be the quality of the point color. Mates are somewhat limited, but there are options to provide some variety in the nestbox. Many shaded breeders include Himi in their programs as Himi (and REW) keep shadeds from becoming too dark. The best point color is said to come from Himi x Himi. Selfs (Black, Blue, etc.) are also options for mates. The dilute Himis (Blue, Lilac) tend to not do as well on the table because the color contrast isn't as striking as black.
Shaded. I'm lumping all the shadeds together because in most cases they can be interbred and type is fairly easy to optain. This includes Siamese Sable, Siamese Smoke Pearl, Sable Point, and Tort. You do have to be careful when doing all four as dilute is unshowable in Sable Point (Blue Point) and Tort (Blue Tort). Although Blue Tort is close to being accepted. One of the worst things about the shadeds is the rather small window when they are in show condition. They go through the most horrible molts and can take forever to regain their former glory. Some (Siamese Sable is the worst) never do after a couple of adult molts. 4-8 months of age is often when they are at their best and it's probably when new breeders first become enamored of the colors. They quickly learn they don't stay so beautiful.
Silver Marten & Chinchilla. These colors can be affected by modifiers and recessives such as shaded and REW. They can be as stunning and typey as Otter when the color is correct. The hard part is getting that crisp intense color. Options for mates should be limited to Silver Marten and Chinchilla, and to some extent, Otter. Silver Martens and Chins should be obtained from breeders specializing in those varieties.
Black. Black seems to have overtaken REW in the Self Group recently. Type is very good across the board. However, it's not an easy color. Hidden genes and modifiers can ruin a fine black. There is the always annoying white hairs, and very few blacks are completely free of white. Whether scattered or spots, white is something that may have to be culled. The best blacks are said to come from Otters. The color is purer as long as the breeder has avoided other things like the shaded genes.
~ Very Difficult ~
Tan. This is the ultimate black & tan rabbit. Due to the genes and modifiers necessary, it is one of the most striking varieties. I put it at the top of this section because it's the most difficult. It's a very rare variety and type is just not there. Many Tan breeders use Otters for type, but it's a vicious circle. Breed to Otter for type...lose color. Breed back to Tan...lose type. Many breeders attempted it, but gave up in frustration. There is only a small handful of breeders still working with it. Tan is not for the faint of heart and you really have to be dedicated to it. It also needs more space. One of the colors most helpful is Red and it's unshowable.
Lynx. This is another rare variety and the color is hard to breed correctly. There are quite a few faults and DQs, and unshowable Chocolate Chestnut may be necessary to work with it. As with any rare variety, type is a work in progress.
Orange & Fawn. These are pretty much stand-alone varieties. They can be bred to each other, but other varieties should be avoided. They are judged strongly on coloration. Smut (scattered black hairs) is a severe fault and is usually tied to the Oranges being based on black. You need the recessive Chocolate gene to clean them up. Outcrossing to Otter for type can be disasterous for the Otters because it adds the undesirable non-extension gene that produces unshowable Tort Otter. Chestnut is a better option for type because Orange/Fawn are agoutis. Unshowable Chocolate Chestnut is an ideal mate. Again, you need extra space.
Blue-Eyed White (BEW). This is another stand-alone variety that requires extra space and dedication. Type is the most difficult thing about BEWs. The color itself is not that hard, but does require outcrossing to create unshowable Vienna-Marked (VM) to improve type and suppress undesirable genetic traits. Due to these factors, they are a bit rare, and there's often not enough decent competition.
In Part 3, I'll talk about my own color management.
Friday, March 19, 2010
Color Management - Part 1
One of the fun things about Netherlands is all the colors that can be shown. Most of those varieties are shown separately and then in their group, with lots of opportunities to earn legs. Finding an assortment of color in the nestbox is much more interesting.
One of the traps a new breeder can fall into is rushing to obtain lots of different colors and then learning that some can't be bred with others. Well, they can of course, but if trying to raise show rabbits, you must follow some color rules or risk too many unshowable colors in the nestbox. They find themselves breeding color instead of type, and might become frustrated when they don't advance as quickly in the show world. A new breeder should research the varieties they are interested in before making any purchases, and it's always best to start small.
See Color Articles for lists of recognized and unrecognized varieties.
Is there good type available in the variety?
Common varieties are usually more established in type. You need only find a good breeder willing to share their better stock. Rarer varieties are generally behind in type as the color itself limits the options for improvement.
Are there enough other breeders/exhibitors to provide decent competition?
It's very hard to earn legs* with a rare variety. The lack of breeding stock and breeders of that variety can make it difficult to progress in type, and they may not be able to compete with other more common and established varieties. On the other side of the coin, the most common varieties can be overwhelming on the show table, and even harder to beat.
* Legs are often the most exciting thing a new breeder/exhibitor can earn. Of course, winning Best of Breed is the goal, but leg wins let a breeder see that they are going in the right direction with their varieties.
Is it a "stand alone" color, or are there other options for mates?
Some varieties simply must be kept to themselves. Outcrossing (breeding to another color) can be done for type improvement but you often go backwards in color. They can add undesirable recessives to another variety and create problems, both for the breeder and anyone they sell to.
Is it a difficult color? (rarity often tells that story)
This is related to the previous question. Some varieties are very difficult to get correct color and breed out color faults or DQs.
Do you want to do well on the table right away?
This can make or break a new breeder. If they go into a show expecting to win, but don't, they can become discouraged. They spent a fortune on rabbits and assume that means they got the best, but as anyone knows, a breeder won't sell their best. If the breeder is at your shows, you probably won't beat them. You should have realistic expectations, and the will to work with the stock you purchased until you can beat the best. Most of the breeders at the top have worked many years to get there. The quickest way to get there is to limit your varieties to the ones with the best type.
Are you willing to put a little time and effort into a variety?
Some varieties aren't difficult and it's just a matter of acquiring the best starter stock. Others require more effort. You many not be able to find superior stock in a rare variety. It can take years to progress in type. Sometimes, you have to start from scratch and create the variety by acquiring stock carrying the necessary color genes. This can take several generations to get all the parts in one litter.
Are unshowable varieties necessary to produce correct color?
Some varieties need an unshowable color to produce correct color and type imrovement. You need extra room for these.
How much are you willing to pay for stock?
The top breeders command top dollar. You might have to go out of your region to obtain them which can involve transport expenses. You can usually find more reasonable prices in your own region, and local breeders might be more willing to help a newby get started without breaking their bank. However, no breeder sells their best, and you probably won't be able to beat them with the rabbits they sold to you. Although it does happen sometimes that a breeder culls so hard they get beat by their own rabbits.
In Part 2, I'll talk about my observations on which varieties are good or not good for beginners.
One of the traps a new breeder can fall into is rushing to obtain lots of different colors and then learning that some can't be bred with others. Well, they can of course, but if trying to raise show rabbits, you must follow some color rules or risk too many unshowable colors in the nestbox. They find themselves breeding color instead of type, and might become frustrated when they don't advance as quickly in the show world. A new breeder should research the varieties they are interested in before making any purchases, and it's always best to start small.
See Color Articles for lists of recognized and unrecognized varieties.
Is there good type available in the variety?
Common varieties are usually more established in type. You need only find a good breeder willing to share their better stock. Rarer varieties are generally behind in type as the color itself limits the options for improvement.
Are there enough other breeders/exhibitors to provide decent competition?
It's very hard to earn legs* with a rare variety. The lack of breeding stock and breeders of that variety can make it difficult to progress in type, and they may not be able to compete with other more common and established varieties. On the other side of the coin, the most common varieties can be overwhelming on the show table, and even harder to beat.
* Legs are often the most exciting thing a new breeder/exhibitor can earn. Of course, winning Best of Breed is the goal, but leg wins let a breeder see that they are going in the right direction with their varieties.
Is it a "stand alone" color, or are there other options for mates?
Some varieties simply must be kept to themselves. Outcrossing (breeding to another color) can be done for type improvement but you often go backwards in color. They can add undesirable recessives to another variety and create problems, both for the breeder and anyone they sell to.
Is it a difficult color? (rarity often tells that story)
This is related to the previous question. Some varieties are very difficult to get correct color and breed out color faults or DQs.
Do you want to do well on the table right away?
This can make or break a new breeder. If they go into a show expecting to win, but don't, they can become discouraged. They spent a fortune on rabbits and assume that means they got the best, but as anyone knows, a breeder won't sell their best. If the breeder is at your shows, you probably won't beat them. You should have realistic expectations, and the will to work with the stock you purchased until you can beat the best. Most of the breeders at the top have worked many years to get there. The quickest way to get there is to limit your varieties to the ones with the best type.
Are you willing to put a little time and effort into a variety?
Some varieties aren't difficult and it's just a matter of acquiring the best starter stock. Others require more effort. You many not be able to find superior stock in a rare variety. It can take years to progress in type. Sometimes, you have to start from scratch and create the variety by acquiring stock carrying the necessary color genes. This can take several generations to get all the parts in one litter.
Are unshowable varieties necessary to produce correct color?
Some varieties need an unshowable color to produce correct color and type imrovement. You need extra room for these.
How much are you willing to pay for stock?
The top breeders command top dollar. You might have to go out of your region to obtain them which can involve transport expenses. You can usually find more reasonable prices in your own region, and local breeders might be more willing to help a newby get started without breaking their bank. However, no breeder sells their best, and you probably won't be able to beat them with the rabbits they sold to you. Although it does happen sometimes that a breeder culls so hard they get beat by their own rabbits.
In Part 2, I'll talk about my observations on which varieties are good or not good for beginners.
Friday, March 12, 2010
Moving Day
Moved all the bucks and jrs out to the Summer House today. 19 altogether. That leaves 12 does in the shed. Most of those are bred. Will breed the rest this weekend.
After I got everyone situated, I sat down and watched them. It's fun to watch them check out new digs and neighbors.
That takes quite a bit of regular cleaning work off me. Just 12 in the shed means I can clean the brush clean system into one bucket instead of two every other day or so.
I suppose I could move all of them out there. With the herd reduction, there's plenty of holes. But I just feel better knowing litters will be born in the rodent/snake proof shed. I can also control temps in there if they fall when litters are due. That happens a lot. And I didn't really design the Summer House's holes for nestboxes.
Now I can begin spring cleaning in the shed. Not really looking forward to that big job but it must be done.
7 days until SPRING!
tnt
After I got everyone situated, I sat down and watched them. It's fun to watch them check out new digs and neighbors.
That takes quite a bit of regular cleaning work off me. Just 12 in the shed means I can clean the brush clean system into one bucket instead of two every other day or so.
I suppose I could move all of them out there. With the herd reduction, there's plenty of holes. But I just feel better knowing litters will be born in the rodent/snake proof shed. I can also control temps in there if they fall when litters are due. That happens a lot. And I didn't really design the Summer House's holes for nestboxes.
Now I can begin spring cleaning in the shed. Not really looking forward to that big job but it must be done.
7 days until SPRING!
tnt
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Aaah spring
The days are warmer and the does are a-lifting. As I promised myself, I got several does bred yesterday. 6 of them.
The agouti bucks got 2 does yesterday. I don't usually do it that way but midway through the day, their does lost interest in any further play. So I put them back and gave the bucks the next does in line for them. Those does had a sleepover.
Got several more open does and I'll try them today. Some weren't up for it yesterday.
Noticed the daylilies are greening up. Doesn't take much warmth at this time of year to get the sap flowing.
10 days until SPRING!
tnt
The agouti bucks got 2 does yesterday. I don't usually do it that way but midway through the day, their does lost interest in any further play. So I put them back and gave the bucks the next does in line for them. Those does had a sleepover.
Got several more open does and I'll try them today. Some weren't up for it yesterday.
Noticed the daylilies are greening up. Doesn't take much warmth at this time of year to get the sap flowing.
10 days until SPRING!
tnt
Monday, March 8, 2010
Dalton
March 6, 2010. This was only my 2nd show this year. Weather prevented my going to any others. Good day. It's a triple which can make for a long day, but they ran our breed side by side for B & C so I was done earlier than usual. The groups were split between 2 judges who were set up next to each other. It was a bit confusing, but the writers kept it straight.
I didn't have a lot to show. More than anything I was delivering a lot of buns, and had a few more to sell. My sr himi doe Anaba (6 legs) was beat by her sister every time. This was a doe I had given to a friend. Isn't that how it goes! Anaba is starting to blow her coat and she lost mostly on condition. She started to shed the week before the show. This was her last show anyways. She's getting bred.
My favorite of 2 himi brothers (Camaro) was DQ'd in A for a broken toe on his front foot. Dammit. I think his bro (Cavalier) got a BOV leg for that show. I was excited about A because we had a very good dwarf judge, and one of his varieties is himi. He really liked Camaro and I think he would have given him the leg and maybe even the group. B & C judges didn't catch the broken toe, and he was placed over Cavalier in both of those, but can't remember if he got a leg. I feel pretty good about that because it means my judgement of the 2 bros seems to be right on.
Artisan (broken chestnut) showed very well (he's a pro poser!), but his fur is still young and fluffy. He didn't compare to the sr brokens. At least his lack of butterfly wasn't an issue. He just has freckles in the whisker bed and they've gotten bigger with age. None of the judges even commented on that.
I picked up the new opal buck and he's even better in person! I'll have to get a new pic of him. The one I was given has him much lighter. His color is deep and rich with a good ring pattern. He might even help improve the blues in my herd. They tend to be too light. I might show him a few times. Opals are very rare on the tables here.
Also brought home a new broken black jr doe (impulse buy). She's broody but has excellent pattern and real nice body. Her lines are completely unrelated to mine and I like that too. It's good to bring in new blood sometimes. I think the agouti bucks will go nicely with her.
I delivered 8 pre-sold buns and sold the other 3 I brought with me. That cleaned out a lot of holes. Then I drove up into Virgina Sunday to deliver the rest. As well as 4 I relayed for someone else. That completely emptied my sale page and more holes. Yay!
Originally all of them were supposed to be delivered at the show Sat, but that fell through a bit. Just as well, it was going to be tight for carrier holes. I didn't really mind the drive to VA. Only had to go 2 hrs and it was a nice day for a drive. The first time I've been that far into VA when it wasn't raining. I could actually enjoy the view. They still have quite a bit of snow up there. I just vegetated when I got home. That was a lot of driving in 2 days and my legs were so tired.
The weather finally got better and I hope it stays that way. I want to move bucks and jrs to the Summer House so I can get to spring cleaning. I'll be down to just 10 occupied brood holes in the shed. Maybe 12. Have a couple other does that are coming of age.
I am so bad! I have nothing bred right now! That is just so wrong for spring. Now that I have the new buck here, I'll get to it today! I've been saving does for him.
I also have to make time for the gardens. It's that time again.
Supposed to get near 60 today. I can open windows and let some fresh air in this stuffy house!
11 days until SPRING!
tnt
I didn't have a lot to show. More than anything I was delivering a lot of buns, and had a few more to sell. My sr himi doe Anaba (6 legs) was beat by her sister every time. This was a doe I had given to a friend. Isn't that how it goes! Anaba is starting to blow her coat and she lost mostly on condition. She started to shed the week before the show. This was her last show anyways. She's getting bred.
My favorite of 2 himi brothers (Camaro) was DQ'd in A for a broken toe on his front foot. Dammit. I think his bro (Cavalier) got a BOV leg for that show. I was excited about A because we had a very good dwarf judge, and one of his varieties is himi. He really liked Camaro and I think he would have given him the leg and maybe even the group. B & C judges didn't catch the broken toe, and he was placed over Cavalier in both of those, but can't remember if he got a leg. I feel pretty good about that because it means my judgement of the 2 bros seems to be right on.
Artisan (broken chestnut) showed very well (he's a pro poser!), but his fur is still young and fluffy. He didn't compare to the sr brokens. At least his lack of butterfly wasn't an issue. He just has freckles in the whisker bed and they've gotten bigger with age. None of the judges even commented on that.
I picked up the new opal buck and he's even better in person! I'll have to get a new pic of him. The one I was given has him much lighter. His color is deep and rich with a good ring pattern. He might even help improve the blues in my herd. They tend to be too light. I might show him a few times. Opals are very rare on the tables here.
Also brought home a new broken black jr doe (impulse buy). She's broody but has excellent pattern and real nice body. Her lines are completely unrelated to mine and I like that too. It's good to bring in new blood sometimes. I think the agouti bucks will go nicely with her.
I delivered 8 pre-sold buns and sold the other 3 I brought with me. That cleaned out a lot of holes. Then I drove up into Virgina Sunday to deliver the rest. As well as 4 I relayed for someone else. That completely emptied my sale page and more holes. Yay!
Originally all of them were supposed to be delivered at the show Sat, but that fell through a bit. Just as well, it was going to be tight for carrier holes. I didn't really mind the drive to VA. Only had to go 2 hrs and it was a nice day for a drive. The first time I've been that far into VA when it wasn't raining. I could actually enjoy the view. They still have quite a bit of snow up there. I just vegetated when I got home. That was a lot of driving in 2 days and my legs were so tired.
The weather finally got better and I hope it stays that way. I want to move bucks and jrs to the Summer House so I can get to spring cleaning. I'll be down to just 10 occupied brood holes in the shed. Maybe 12. Have a couple other does that are coming of age.
I am so bad! I have nothing bred right now! That is just so wrong for spring. Now that I have the new buck here, I'll get to it today! I've been saving does for him.
I also have to make time for the gardens. It's that time again.
Supposed to get near 60 today. I can open windows and let some fresh air in this stuffy house!
11 days until SPRING!
tnt
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