I've seen a few discussions lately about disappointment in purchased stock. Heck, I've had my own disappointments. Sometimes, it's a risk you take. But there are things you can do to minimize the risks. Convention is coming up and sale lists are going up, and a lot of people are shopping. So I thought I'd blog about what I've learned from experience and others' experiences.
Everyone should know this, but I'll start with the basics. Thoroughly examine the rabbit for health and soundness. Check teeth, genitals, eyes, nose, legs, toes, nails, spine, tail. Check for color DQs such as white spots, or incorrect nail or eye color. Also make sure the ear number (if it has one) matches the pedigree.
What if you're buying the rabbit sight unseen? This is not the wisest thing to do. Unfortunately, it might be the only way to bring in fresh bloodlines from outside your region or from breeders you admire. You have to trust the breeder to be honest with you, and you have to know the questions to ask. If the breeder is vague or evasive about answering your questions, consider looking elsewhere.
Here are some questions to ask.
Start with the health and soundness questions. It's possible for a breeder to forget to examine their rabbits regularly, and something could get past them. I don't think there is a breeder who has not been surprised by a DQ on the judging table. Asking will make them think about it.
Since this is about Dwarfs, let's talk about weight and ear length, 2 very important features. If you're buying a brood doe, weight and ear length are not as important, although, the longer and thinner the ears, the more you will struggle with it later. If you're buying a buck you want to show, it is. Even though the standard says 2-1/2" ears are allowed, no Dwarf looks good with ears over 2" unless he is also overweight. Ask for an ear measurement and current weight. The limit is 2-1/2 lbs, but if it weighs that much at 5-6 months, it will likely go overweight when fully mature.
My personal experience with overweight bucks wasn't good. That's pretty much what I got from them. When someone says this hefty bunny with ears over 2" will make a good brood buck, that raises red flags for me. The selling point that it has big bone is only slightly a consideration. While a massive buck can bring in heavier bone, he can also bring in weight issues that will hold you back.
It's a risk buying young jrs. Ears grow until about 3 months so that's the youngest you should buy a dwarf. Different lines develop differently and what looks good at 10 weeks might look awful at 6 months. It goes the other way, too. Some lines are horrendous at 3 months and come into themselves by 5 months. Ask the breeder what to expect from their lines.
Now let's talk about buying bucks and does for breeding stock.
As I said, it's a risk buying young jrs, and especially young bucks. It can be a year before they are fully developed. It's better to buy bucks 4 months or older. You should see their potential by then. If you need a breeding buck right now, of course, look for one that is already old enough to breed. That's usually 6 months. Older bucks are usually not a risk, they can produce much longer than does. Although, after 4 years, he might not be as studly as he used to be.
Now let's talk about does. Does can make or break your breeding program. If you can't get a litter, you aren't going anywhere. There are a lot of questions you should ask about sr does, and even jrs.
- How old is she? Be leery of anything over 2-1/2 years, unless you know and trust the breeder, and maybe even know the full history of that doe. While there are dwarf does producing past 3 years, it's the exception rather than the rule.
- Proven? Is she really? Some people call a doe proven if she had a litter, dead or alive. In my opinion, and reputable breeders agree, she's not proven until she raises a litter to weaning.
- How many litters, and what were the results? Dead, alive, weaned? A new breeder might also want to know about any Max Factors or hippos. Knowledgeable breeders aren't concerned about this, but it can be startling to someone who wasn't expecting such a thing.
- When was her last litter? This is an important question, especially if considering an older doe. The longer it's been since her last litter, the harder it will be to get her producing again.
- Has a show doe been bred before she's a year old? Most breeders retire a doe from showing by 8 months. If you wait any longer, you risk failure. One of the things to understand is how a doe distributes fat. If she's kept on show condition rations, she will begin to accumulate fat around the reproductive organs as she approaches her 1st birthday. This will affect conception and kindling. This is why you rarely see a doe with very many legs, unless she earned them all quickly. If she's still going out to the tables after 1 year without ever being bred, she's a risk. Unless you just want a show doe.
- Temperament and skills? Is she calm? Overprotective? Is she good about building a nice nest and putting the babies in it?
- If it's a jr doe, ask about the line's reproductive skills. Was her mother a good brood doe? This is a trait that can be inherited, and poor skills and instincts can be inherited as well.
Some other things to consider when buying unseen.
Price. Remember...high price does not guarantee high quality, or success in your breeding program. Some breeders base their prices on their show results and reputation. Sometimes it's valid, sometimes not. A buck with an impressive pedigree and show career can command a high price, but that doesn't always mean he's worth it. That can only be proven in his offspring. He could be a complete bust in your herd. A doe's price should reflect her success (or lack thereof) as a brood doe, and her age is a factor, too. A young proven doe is worth more than one that is getting up there in age.
I avoid breeders that don't state sale prices. They might say "inquire" or nothing at all. I wonder why that is. Is the price so outrageous, the breeder is embarrassed or afraid to state it openly? Is the price going to depend on who asks? Actually, that's my 1st thought. I want to see a set price for all. If it's not in my budget, I won't bother the breeder. For myself, I don't want a bunch of emails asking a question that can be answered before the buyer contacts me.
Buying a photo is risky. A good handler can make a rabbit look better than it is and minimize its faults. Usually, you'll only see one view (the profile) which doesn't give you the whole picture. You certainly can't tell how big it is, or how long the ears are. Research what a proper dwarf pose is supposed to look like, and how to spot faults in a photo. Ask questions about the things that concern you.
One last thought. Climate and environment. I've talked about this before and it bears repeating. Some rabbitries use air-conditioning, and sometimes to extremes. It's one thing to cool a barn so the rabbits are safe and comfortable. It's another to keep the barn abnormally cool at all times. Some breeders even state their rabbits are raised in a controlled climate and may not fair well otherwise. If your rabbits are kept in a more natural environment that fluctuates with the seasons and temperatures, a bunny raised in a constantly cool climate might not be a good choice.
Happy shopping.
tnt
